The beach is beautiful, powdery white sand, and the sunset was very pretty, but we aren't planning to stay. This is New Year's Eve, but we haven't stayed up to celebrate for many years, and it doesn't look like tonight will be any exception.
Monday, 31 December 2012
Clearwater Beach
A leisurely start today, and a short run brought us to Clearwater Beach, where we have anchored just behind the beach strip in the midst of condos and homes. We dingy'd over for dinner at Frenchy's Rockaway Grill which is right on the beach.
The beach is beautiful, powdery white sand, and the sunset was very pretty, but we aren't planning to stay. This is New Year's Eve, but we haven't stayed up to celebrate for many years, and it doesn't look like tonight will be any exception.
The beach is beautiful, powdery white sand, and the sunset was very pretty, but we aren't planning to stay. This is New Year's Eve, but we haven't stayed up to celebrate for many years, and it doesn't look like tonight will be any exception.
Sunday, 30 December 2012
Tarpon Springs
We have spent the last two days exploring this lovely town, mostly on foot. Weary and footsore, but having a blast!
The marina is very close to the Sponge Docks, where the town's history of sponge diving and Greek culture is evident in every shop, cafe, restaurant, and tourist focused attraction. The waterfront is very busy, with tourists and locals alike, and you can hear as much Greek spoken as English.
It is a little piece of Greece, right here in Florida. For our friends in Toronto, imagine the Danforth on steroids, and you'll be close. The restaurants are amazing, offering up char grilled octopus, squid, shrimp and smelt that was no doubt swimming mere hours before arriving on the plate in front of you. We've sampled Greek pastries, and I have developed a taste for retsina - a Greek white wine full of flavour.
We have walked around Spring Bayou, seen the manatees, looked at the huge homes dating back to the last century, visited the farmers market and sampled knishes, and thoroughly enjoyed our visit here.
With the full moon, the strong winds and the tidal cycles, we woke up this morning to find that we and all the other boats near us were sitting on the bottom. It's a strange feeling to be on the boat when it's not actually floating. Maybe we'll move on tomorrow to find some deeper water.
The marina is very close to the Sponge Docks, where the town's history of sponge diving and Greek culture is evident in every shop, cafe, restaurant, and tourist focused attraction. The waterfront is very busy, with tourists and locals alike, and you can hear as much Greek spoken as English.
It is a little piece of Greece, right here in Florida. For our friends in Toronto, imagine the Danforth on steroids, and you'll be close. The restaurants are amazing, offering up char grilled octopus, squid, shrimp and smelt that was no doubt swimming mere hours before arriving on the plate in front of you. We've sampled Greek pastries, and I have developed a taste for retsina - a Greek white wine full of flavour.
We have walked around Spring Bayou, seen the manatees, looked at the huge homes dating back to the last century, visited the farmers market and sampled knishes, and thoroughly enjoyed our visit here.
With the full moon, the strong winds and the tidal cycles, we woke up this morning to find that we and all the other boats near us were sitting on the bottom. It's a strange feeling to be on the boat when it's not actually floating. Maybe we'll move on tomorrow to find some deeper water.
Friday, 28 December 2012
Big Bend completed
We got up at 6 am again this morning to find fishing boats heading out in the dark. A good sign that the expected good weather day was here.
We headed out at 7 a.m. at quite a low tide (full moon) so we had to watch the skinny spots on the way out. Once we were out of the channel we set our course and sped up to about 2,200 rpm.. our speed varied anywhere from 12.4 m.p.h to 14.5 m.p.h. due to the effects of current in the Gulf. We did not appreciate that there is a circular current flow in the Gulf of Mexico.... the reason why Carrabelle had no oil on it's beaches from the BP oil spill, the current kept the oil from going into shore!
We were passed by a pontoon boat in the Tarpon Springs channel!
We had a good crossing with only a couple of hours where the swell of 2-3 feet on our port quarter was causing a little bit of a roll which made both Mundy and Edee a little uncomfortable. After quite a long day of 9 1/2 hrs averaging 12.5 mph we were safely at the dock in Turtle Cove Marina, Tarpon Springs. We did the registration paperwork and then headed out in the rain (light & warm) to one of the local Greek restaurants "Mykonos" for a wonderful meal.
The town looks worth exploring over the next few days.... New Year's Eve at Zorba's maybe!
Today's Miles 123
Total Miles 1,147
Now using the trip log total...
We headed out at 7 a.m. at quite a low tide (full moon) so we had to watch the skinny spots on the way out. Once we were out of the channel we set our course and sped up to about 2,200 rpm.. our speed varied anywhere from 12.4 m.p.h to 14.5 m.p.h. due to the effects of current in the Gulf. We did not appreciate that there is a circular current flow in the Gulf of Mexico.... the reason why Carrabelle had no oil on it's beaches from the BP oil spill, the current kept the oil from going into shore!
We were passed by a pontoon boat in the Tarpon Springs channel!
We had a good crossing with only a couple of hours where the swell of 2-3 feet on our port quarter was causing a little bit of a roll which made both Mundy and Edee a little uncomfortable. After quite a long day of 9 1/2 hrs averaging 12.5 mph we were safely at the dock in Turtle Cove Marina, Tarpon Springs. We did the registration paperwork and then headed out in the rain (light & warm) to one of the local Greek restaurants "Mykonos" for a wonderful meal.
The town looks worth exploring over the next few days.... New Year's Eve at Zorba's maybe!
Today's Miles 123
Total Miles 1,147
Now using the trip log total...
Wednesday, 26 December 2012
Held in Port by the Weather Again!
True to the forecaster's prediction today was a day to be in port... we were safely tied to the floating docks at Sea Hag Marina while the Gulf was blowing at up to 30 mph with seas of 9-12 feet.
Surprisingly we endured 2' waves with whitecaps coming up the river to where we were!! Look at the location link at the bottom to see how far up river they were coming including going round a bend in the river.
This picture does not do it justice but trust me it was unexpected.
The sunset was nice and maybe a sign that things will change tomorrow, right now we are planning to go all the way to Tarpon Springs in one day on Friday. That means we need to bump up the speed by 2 mph (20%) and start at first light, say 6:30/6:45 am.
Surprisingly we endured 2' waves with whitecaps coming up the river to where we were!! Look at the location link at the bottom to see how far up river they were coming including going round a bend in the river.
This picture does not do it justice but trust me it was unexpected.
The sunset was nice and maybe a sign that things will change tomorrow, right now we are planning to go all the way to Tarpon Springs in one day on Friday. That means we need to bump up the speed by 2 mph (20%) and start at first light, say 6:30/6:45 am.
Tuesday, 25 December 2012
Merry Christmas!!
Our weather gurus have all suggested that we stay put in Steinhatchee for a few more days, as there is lots of bad weather about to hit. They are predicting winds gusting up to 25mph, and seas between 2 and 6 feet, depending on who you listen to. Two foot seas we can handle, but anything more than that is too much for me, although I know that the boat will handle more than I can. So, it's Christmas in Steinhatchee, instead of on the water.
It's still early, but there is no sign of the sun. Dark gray clouds are drifting overhead pretty quickly, and even in our sheltered spot up the river we can begin to feel the wind freshening. Time for a mimosa, and a lazy morning!
Wishing you all very Merry Christmas, and a healthy, happy New Year!
It's still early, but there is no sign of the sun. Dark gray clouds are drifting overhead pretty quickly, and even in our sheltered spot up the river we can begin to feel the wind freshening. Time for a mimosa, and a lazy morning!
Wishing you all very Merry Christmas, and a healthy, happy New Year!
Monday, 24 December 2012
After effects
The alarm went off at 6 this morning, so that we could assess the weather and make a decision on whether to travel or stay here another night. All indications were for a windy, bumpy day so we decided to stay put. Having made that decision, I went back to bed - to relax and read a bit, if not to sleep. At least that was what I said. Here are the after effects of getting up at 4 am yesterday, and 6 today.....
Yes -my glasses are still on, and my Kindle has fallen over, and the light is still on, and I am fast asleep. Oh well.
After a late start, we went for a walk around the town. It's a sleepy little place, really devoted to fishing. In fact, I saw a T shirt in one store that said "Steinhatchee...a drinking town with a fishing problem". There are houses, cottages and cabins for rent, boats for hire, guides to take you to the best places, and even fish cleaning services available.
Many of the buildings, especially those close to the water, are built on stilts to accommodate any storm effects.
There are a ton of birds - gulls and terns, of course, cormorants, and pelicans (or hooligans as Michael calls them), and even a bunch of black capped night herons that make a lot of noise when we disturb them on the dock with our coming and going.
I even managed to catch this pair of cardinals.
Yes -my glasses are still on, and my Kindle has fallen over, and the light is still on, and I am fast asleep. Oh well.
After a late start, we went for a walk around the town. It's a sleepy little place, really devoted to fishing. In fact, I saw a T shirt in one store that said "Steinhatchee...a drinking town with a fishing problem". There are houses, cottages and cabins for rent, boats for hire, guides to take you to the best places, and even fish cleaning services available.
Many of the buildings, especially those close to the water, are built on stilts to accommodate any storm effects.
There are a ton of birds - gulls and terns, of course, cormorants, and pelicans (or hooligans as Michael calls them), and even a bunch of black capped night herons that make a lot of noise when we disturb them on the dock with our coming and going.
I even managed to catch this pair of cardinals.
Tomorrow is a travel day, so we'll be up early again. This Christmas eve will be a very quiet one - and tomorrow will be one of the most unusual Christmas days I've had in a long, long time!!
Sunday, 23 December 2012
Steinhatchee
We have finally left the Florida Panhandle and made our way to the west coast of the gulf. We were up at 4 this morning to evaluate the weather for crossing the big bend, and left the dock at about 6:30, accompanied by Bev & Bruce (from Baltimore) on Paddy Wagon. The sun wasn't up yet, but the sky was lightening up and we could see all the channel markers quite clearly.
The crossing itself was fine, with no more than 1 foot waves and very little wind. Once the sun came up fully, it was enough to warm us up on the bridge. This was the first time this trip that we have been out of sight of land, and I must admit it got pretty boring after a while. There were lots of dolphins, and I would rush out onto the bow every time we spotted some, hoping that they would come to play, but no luck.
We arrived at Sea Hag Marina just before 4:00, tired and hungry, and still needing to determine whether the weather will allow us to continue our journey tomorrow, or if we will be staying here until it blows through.
Could this be why the marina got it's name?
Today's miles: 88
Total miles: 1008
The crossing itself was fine, with no more than 1 foot waves and very little wind. Once the sun came up fully, it was enough to warm us up on the bridge. This was the first time this trip that we have been out of sight of land, and I must admit it got pretty boring after a while. There were lots of dolphins, and I would rush out onto the bow every time we spotted some, hoping that they would come to play, but no luck.
We arrived at Sea Hag Marina just before 4:00, tired and hungry, and still needing to determine whether the weather will allow us to continue our journey tomorrow, or if we will be staying here until it blows through.
Could this be why the marina got it's name?
Today's miles: 88
Total miles: 1008
Thursday, 20 December 2012
Carrabelle
We arrived in Carrabelle yesterday afternoon, after a very pleasant three hour cruise. The town is a little way up the river, and quite protected. It is also as far east as one can travel on the intracoastal, and why it is the jumping off point for boaters wishing to head across the gulf to the west coast of Florida.
You can see on the map the 'big bend' at the top of the gulf. You will also see how you might travel from here to our destination by road, but our intention is to cross the gulf from here to a safe harbour just south of Crystal River, in a day if we can. We will need good weather, meaning light winds from the north, as we want to travel in the lee of the land. It's about 120 miles, and will make for a long day, but doable as long as the weather holds.
It's raining now, and the forecast is not good for travel until Sunday. We'll keep ourselves amused in this sleepy little town, and hang out with the others here also waiting for the weather to turn.
Yesterday's miles: 28
Total miles: 920
You can see on the map the 'big bend' at the top of the gulf. You will also see how you might travel from here to our destination by road, but our intention is to cross the gulf from here to a safe harbour just south of Crystal River, in a day if we can. We will need good weather, meaning light winds from the north, as we want to travel in the lee of the land. It's about 120 miles, and will make for a long day, but doable as long as the weather holds.
It's raining now, and the forecast is not good for travel until Sunday. We'll keep ourselves amused in this sleepy little town, and hang out with the others here also waiting for the weather to turn.
Yesterday's miles: 28
Total miles: 920
Wednesday, 19 December 2012
Fun in a golf cart
First stop was the coast, with a boardwalk leading out over the water for views of the barrier islands in the distance.
The tide was on its way out, with the strong current visible around this pole.
There are many beautiful homes in town - some old, some new, but all holding to the local architectural style.
At the far end of town, we found where most of the shrimp boats hang out, with a constant reminder of what can happen when the big storms blow in.
The shells from all those oysters they sell have to go somewhere. They are in parking lots and gravel paths all over town, but this is where they seem to keep the stocks.
We found out that the town's origins really came from the cotton trade. At one time, Apalachicola was the third largest trading town in the south. According to this sign, cotton trade in 1840 reached between six and eight MILLION dollars. In 1840!!! (click on the photo to make it larger, and you can read the whole story)
But my favourite place of all was the Tin Shed. It is a large tin shed, packed inside and out with all things nautical, and beachy. It's tacky, and fun, with trash and treasures for everyone, from shells, seaglass and driftwood, to antique compasses and astrolabes, to life size statues of pirates and buxom wenches. Michael wanted one, but we really have nowhere to put her!
Monday, 17 December 2012
Apalachicola
A very short run of only 2 hours brought us from White City to Apalachicola this morning. We have told many, many times not to miss this lovely little town, as it is as indicative of 'old Florida' as one can find.
Apalachicola may have started out as a sponge trading town, but its claim to fame now is oysters. And so our first order of business was lunch. As we headed out, we ran into the folks from Sea Hunt again, so it became a party of six. They had selected Up the Creek, which has an elevated dining room and balconies overlooking the river, and of course oysters six different ways.
Michael, of course, chose raw, and was so surprised at the tenderness and taste that he began to urge me to try one. I resisted in New Orleans, and I resisted in Mobile, (although I did have some grilled), but I relented under the pressure, if just to make him stop offering. I took a small one, and warned that if I didn't like it I would spit it out. That was fine with Michael, as long as I spit it back into the shell so as not to waste it!!
I lifted the shell, examined the oyster, sniffed the oyster, and then slurped the oyster into my mouth. Much to my surprise, and I think to Michael's, I liked it. It tasted much like mussels, and was not at all rubbery. So I had another, much to Michael's chagrin.
After lunch, we wandered off to explore the town. There's a lot of history here, and some lovely old buildings. We're going to stay for a few days while we wait for the weather to settle down enough for a safe crossing of the gulf.
Look carefully at the sign...deliberate pun, or honest mistake?
Today's miles: 22.1
Total miles: 892
Apalachicola may have started out as a sponge trading town, but its claim to fame now is oysters. And so our first order of business was lunch. As we headed out, we ran into the folks from Sea Hunt again, so it became a party of six. They had selected Up the Creek, which has an elevated dining room and balconies overlooking the river, and of course oysters six different ways.
Michael, of course, chose raw, and was so surprised at the tenderness and taste that he began to urge me to try one. I resisted in New Orleans, and I resisted in Mobile, (although I did have some grilled), but I relented under the pressure, if just to make him stop offering. I took a small one, and warned that if I didn't like it I would spit it out. That was fine with Michael, as long as I spit it back into the shell so as not to waste it!!
I lifted the shell, examined the oyster, sniffed the oyster, and then slurped the oyster into my mouth. Much to my surprise, and I think to Michael's, I liked it. It tasted much like mussels, and was not at all rubbery. So I had another, much to Michael's chagrin.
After lunch, we wandered off to explore the town. There's a lot of history here, and some lovely old buildings. We're going to stay for a few days while we wait for the weather to settle down enough for a safe crossing of the gulf.
Look carefully at the sign...deliberate pun, or honest mistake?
Today's miles: 22.1
Total miles: 892
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