Cayo Rapado Grande to Maria La Gorda

June 24
Cayo Rapado Grande to Cayo Montano (Ensenada de Anita)  30.5 miles  
Total miles:  627.7

After a night of very little sleep, we were up early to try to extricate ourselves.  We wished each other a perfunctory Happy Anniversary (our 29th) and got down to business.

We were afloat by now, thank goodness, and a quick survey of depths around us made it clear that our best way out was the way we came in, only backwards.   Michael was at the helm, Patrick was in our dinghy, and lifted the bow anchor into it, while I hauled like crazy on the stern anchor line to pull us backwards out of the hole.  As soon as we were clear, Michael was able to engage the engines and drive us further out, to safety.

He dropped an anchor again in plenty of water, and waited while I ferried Patrick back to Cava.  All’s well that ends well, as Shakespeare said, and there didn’t appear to be any damage to the running gear, so we set of in search of a beach at Cayo Buenavista to stop, get in the water, and take a good look.  Unfortunately, there was no beach visible at high tide, so we went back to the original plan and headed to Cayo Montano.

It was a good run, and we saw our first pod of dolphins since we were approaching Veradero six weeks ago.  Happy Anniversary indeed!    We had invited P&J for dinner to help us celebrate, so spent the afternoon getting ready for that.  There were a couple of thunder showers during the day, but nothing that alarmed us.

Jaqueline offered to show me how she cooks lobster, and I jumped at the chance.  Patrick, whose nickname is apparently TopChef, made us a lemon/lime tart  - a recipe from the Ritz in Paris!  We were so looking forward to a nice relaxed evening.

It started to rain just after we had sat down to dinner, and the wind began howling.  We were in the middle of closing screens to keep the rain out when Michael said “Mundy – something’s wrong.  We’re moving!”   I looked over at Cava, and we seemed to be careening towards her at a startling speed.  Michael ran to the bridge to start the engines, and I headed out to the bow to retrieve the anchor, which by now was simply sliding across the bottom and doing absolutely nothing to slow us down.  It was pouring down, and I was soaked to the skin in minutes.

A windlass only works at one speed, and tonight it seemed to be very slow.   As the anchor came up, and I wrestled with the bridle, we actually made contact with Cava.  A good thump as our side rails came into contact with one of her pontoons.  Poor Patrick was helpless to do anything to safeguard his boat, and could only stand and watch as we hurtled towards her.

We tried resetting the anchor, and as Michael reversed to try to set it, Cava’s dinghy line wrapped around our prop, shutting down one engine.  Eventually, we thought we got it set, and Michael went in the water to cut the dinghy free.  It was still pouring down, and crazy windy.  Patrick needed to go and see to his boat, and eventually we cut his line, but there was still a large piece wrapped around our prop.

I yelled at Michael to get out of the water.....we were still drifting!   Again, in the driving rain, we were hauling and resetting the anchor.   This is the stuff of nightmares.  Howling wind, driving rain, zero visibility, shallow water surrounding the boat and mangroves beyond that.  If we couldn’t get it set, we would be running the one engine we had left all night!

Finally, we got the anchor down, and we believed it was set.  Michael sat watching the GPS to monitor our position, while I stood on the aft deck staring out at the mangroves behind us to make sure we weren’t getting any closer.  The dinner table had been abandoned, and lobster tails and rice sat on plates in puddles of rain water that had driven in through the screens we never managed to get down.  Everything was completely soaked.  I was just about to start gathering it all up when Michael saw P&J coming back in their dinghy.  Bless their hearts, they were coming back to finish dinner!!

We poured away the rain water from the plates, and sat down again on wet furniture to finish eating.  And then, of course, we had to have dessert.   This is the only picture from dinner that evening – Patrick’s lemon tart, with Happy Birday inscribed in the meringue!

Needless to say, we didn’t sleep much that night, but there were no more storms and the anchor did hold.


June 25
Cayo Montano to Marina Los Morros, Cabo San Antonio  41.5 miles    
Total miles: 669.2

Michael was up early, and had the remains of Patrick's dinghy line unwrapped from our prop and rudder in about 30 minutes.

An uneventful 5 ½ hours brought us to the marina at Cabo San Antonio, our last stop before rounding the tip of Cuba and getting to the south coast.  We had read that this was a small marina, but were looking forward to staying a couple of nights, tied up to something solid after the excitement of our last two nights.  In fact, this marina can only tie boats to one side of the dock because the windward side is so rough.  And it is a short pier, with only three boat lengths available.  We arrived to find a sailboat rafted to a fishing boat at the end of the dock, two dive boats rafted together behind them, and a big empty space at the inner end.   Unfortunately, that empty space belonged to a Russian flagged sport fishing boat for the month, so we could not tie up to the pier anywhere.  We were forced to anchor, again, in a very exposed little bay, and spent the night being slammed and rocked by waves travelling across the entire bay.

So much for a good night’s sleep.  I’m so tired by now I can barely think straight, and am definitely not a happy camper.


June 26
Los Morros to Maria La Gorda    51.1 miles Total miles:  710.3

We set off again this morning after taking on fuel and water at the dock.   We were lucky, and were told to pull into the Russian’s spot after they had left for their day of fishing, so had a relatively calm 30 minutes while we were there.  Cava went round the other side, and were bounced around constantly while they also refueled.

This passage marks our transition from the Atlantic Ocean on Cuba’s north coast to the Caribbean on the island’s south coast.  As we travelled, we saw the colour of the water change from the green/brown of the mangrove cays to that beautiful blue we all associate with tropical waters.  And the clarity of the water is stunning.  We could clearly see the bottom at 30 feet.

We travelled into the edge of the Yucatan Current, much like the Gulf Stream in that it is very deep and very fast.  Clear skies, light wind and a gentle swell were the order of the day.

This coast of the Bahia de Corrientes seems to be one long beautiful beach.  There is a resort here that is home to an International Diving Centre, and is part of a National Park.  We were preparing to anchor, according to our guide book, but were called into the dock by the staff at the resort.  We were told that anchoring was prohibited (due to an incident a while ago where someone dropped an anchor either on a group of divers or on a part of the reef...it’s not clear) but we were welcome to use one of their mooring balls for a nominal fee of $0.35 per tonne.  For us, that works out to $6.12 – a one time fee regardless of the number of nights we choose to stay.  And we are welcome to use the resort, visit the bars and restaurants, and use their wi-fi.

It is beautiful.  White sand beaches, clear turquoise water that is so warm.  Palm trees line the beach, and the birds sing and call to each other all day.  The dive centre seems to be pretty active, and their boats seem to go out every day.  Maybe I’ll join one while I’m here.  It’s been a long time, but I’m pretty sure I haven’t forgotten how.

And to top it all off, we have an unobstructed view of sunset – every night!

Cayo Levisa to Cayo Rapado Grande

June 21
The wind is still blowing, hitting upwards of 35 knots at times.  It is unrelenting, and we have been bobbing about in the waves for days now.  There was a small respite last night around sundown, and we were hopeful that we would have a quiet night, but no such luck.  By 11 pm it was raining and blowing again.  The wind is still howling, but the sun is shining.  It’s just a shame that it’s too rough to launch the dinghy and go ashore for a bit of relief and a change of scenery.


June 22
Cayo Levisa to Cayo Jutias   49.1 miles Total miles: 567.2
Finally, a break in the weather and light winds to make travelling comfortable.  The water was beautifully flat and the sun shone all day.  We wound our way along many miles of this incredible coastline, and through some very narrow passes between mangrove cays.  Thankfully, Cava has been this way before, and we were able to follow her through the tricky bits.  Some of the aids to navigation reminded us of certain areas in Georgian Bay where the locals will mark a shoal or rocks with a stick!

We arrived at our anchorage at 5pm.  Time for a swim before dinner.


June 23
Cayo Jutias to Cayo Rapado Grande   30 miles Total miles:  597.2

The run itself was uneventful, but we ran out of water as we were approaching the anchorage.  In other words, we ran aground crossing a shallow shelf.  And, of course, the tide was on its way out.  So there we sat, hard aground, as the water around us got shallower and shallower.   There was nothing we could do until high tide the next morning.  We put out 2 anchors – at bow and stern – to keep us from being pushed into shallower water on either side of us by wind or current.

Lucky for us, some of the local fishermen came by to sell some of their catch.  We got these 6 lobsters for $10, and you know they were fresh!  P&J also bought a beautiful pink snapper, and invited us for dinner.   It was a long ride in the dinghy from our stranded boat to Cava, and it seemed even longer getting back in the dark, but it was well worth the effort.

Havana to Cayo Levisa

June 15
Marina Hemingway to Bahia Honda
We were up and away fairly early this morning, stopping for fuel on our way out, and the obligatory check out procedures with the Guarda.  There is great interest in our bicycles, and at each stop they confirm that we still have them – both on arrival and departure.  I guess they are a valuable commodity here, and they want to make sure we have not sold them.

The trip from Marina Hemingway to Bahia Honda is a distance of 40 nautical miles, or about 5 hours.  It was a lovely day with clear skies and very little wind, but we did hit a current going the other direction, which affected our speed and therefore our total travel time.  Cava, our travelling buddies, were affected even more than we were, as they are unable to get more from their engines.

The coastline has become very rugged and sharp, with few towns visible now that we are west of Havana.  The ocean was that beautiful deep sapphire that we love so much, and conditions today were close to perfect.  Kokie was even comfortable enough that he actually played for a little while, a first for him when we are under way.

Our anchorage for the night was Bahia Honda, home to a ship recycling facility but also littered with the wrecks of ships that were either too far gone to recycle, or they sank while waiting their turn.  The rusting carcass of an old dry dock marks the entrance to the bay.   Despite all of this, it is actually very pretty, and we settled in for the night after a refreshing swim, a few drinks with Patrick and Jacqueline, and a light dinner.


June 16
Bahia Honda to Cayo Levisa

Cava left about an hour before us this morning, and when we left the bay we found beautiful flat seas with no wind and virtually no current.  What a perfect day!  Blue faded into blue, with no discernible horizon.   On our left, the sharp coastline with an occasional white sand beach.  On our right, infinity.

We caught up with Cava in time to follow them into Cayo Levisa where we plan to stay for the next several days as there is some serious rain in the forecast.  We left the relative safety of travel in several hundred feet of water to cross the reef, sometimes in water as shallow as 6 to 8 feet.  It is so clear that you can see the bottom at about 30 feet, so everything in less than 10 feet seems to be right at the surface.  Michael had to trust the depth and forward scanner, as I wasn’t able to judge any depth from the bow.

We made it through without incident, but had a little difficulty getting our anchors set in the weedy bottom.  We dragged up a ball of weeds and mud and roots bigger than a basketball at one point which I had to pull off the anchor.  Never let it be said that I am afraid to get my hands dirty!

There is a resort on the island, and we are welcome to visit their beach, bars and restaurants while we are here.  But first, we had to check in with the local Guarda.  Patrick picked him up at the resort dock and brought him out for the clearance formalities, first on his own boat, then to ours.  We provide all the copies of all the same documentation at each stop, and answer all the same questions each time.  Each Guarda laboriously fills out his copy of the forms by hand, which Michael signs with great solemnity.

The resort is lovely, with no buildings above tree level.  The palm thatched bungalows and common areas are spread out across the island, linked by wooden boardwalks across green spaces and sand dunes.  The beach is fabulous, and we plan to spend some time there if the weather allows.

The mainland is fascinating...so clearly an ancient reef that now reaches skyward, with strange shapes mixed amongst sharp points.  Impossible to capture with a camera what we can see with our eyes, but we’ll keep trying.

June 17
Had a lazy morning, and met P&J at the resort restaurant for lunch.  The buffet is typically Cuban – fish, pork, soup, limited vegetables, lots of rice and pasta.  Not great, but a beautiful setting on the beach, so worth the $8.00!

We made it back to the boat before the rain started, and got all the windows and hatches closed.  And did it rain!!!   The wind reached 30mph according to Patrick, and waves pounded across the anchorage.  We watched very carefully to make sure our anchor was holding after the trouble we had setting it, and it held us perfectly!

Sunset after the rain was beautiful, as is often the case.  I think I’m becoming addicted to sunsets.

June 18

We woke up to a beautiful full rainbow, but its been raining ever since, and the wind is getting stronger.  We have done some inside jobs, and done a little tidying and reorganizing.   And at some point during those activities,  I suddenly realized that I have not been providing our mileage travelled in this part of the blog as I did when we were traveling down the rivers from Alabama.  So here it is if you’re interested:

Date Start at Punta Gorda, Florida Miles Travelled Total Miles
Apr 11 Fort Myers Beach Mooring Field 56.6         56.6
Apr 12 Smokehouse Bay, Marco Island 42.8         99.4
Apr 13 Shark River Inlet                             68.2         167.6
Apr 14 Boot Key Harbour                          49.2         216.8
May 6 Anchorage south of Boot Key           3.4           220.2
May 7 Marina Gaviota, Cuba                   114.6 334.8
Jun 5 Marina Darsena                                 24.3         359.1
Jun 6 Marina Hemingway                           81.5         440.6
Jun 15 Bahia Honda                                    47.5         488.1
Jun 16 Cayo Levisa                                       29.9 518.0

Havana

With serious connectivity issues, we have decided to publish the story of our last few days, and add pictures as we can.


June 5, 2017
After a month at Marina Gaviota, it was time for us to move on.  Next destination – La Habana.

At Gaviota we met Patrick and Jaqueline, a French couple who have been living on their 40 foot catamaran Cava and sailing around the Caraibbean for the last 7 years.  They were also headed for Havana, so once again we had a buddy boat for the 12 hour trip from Veradero to Havana.  We broke it into 2 parts, spending one night at Marina Darsena then getting an early start the next morning for the longest leg of 81 miles.



June 6, 2017
Conditions were very good at the start of the day, but the winds built throughout the day, with gusts reaching up to 30 knots.  We stayed about a mile offshore to minimize the wave action, but were definitely dealing with those heavy winds, and a few sprinkles along the way.

The shoreline quickly changed from the flat sandy penninsula where Veradero is to limestone bluffs and rocky beaches.  This is a sensitive area for Cuba, as it is the closest jumping off point for those Cubans wanting to escape to the U.S.  Military observation posts were visible all along the coast, and we were aware that our progress was being tracked and recorded.  Travellers are required to check in and out of each marina, and say what the next port of call will be.  Anchoring along this part of the coast is not permitted.

We passed by the mouth of Havana Harbour and the city proper on our way to Marina Hemingway, which is about 10 miles, or an hour’s travel, past the city.  It was still blowing very hard when we arrived, and Michael had to work very, very hard to bring us safely alongside the customs dock for the obligatory check in, inspection and paperwork.  Then we had to move to our slip in the first of 4 canals that make up the marina.  We are closest to the sea, and farthest from the noise of the hotel pool and bar, which pumps out electronic music at deafening volumes all day long!

June 8, 2017
After a day of rest and relaxation, Patrick and Jaqueline took us with them on a shopping trip.  This is not their first visit here, and they have a taxi driver that they know well, as well as some very good locations for provisioning.  Best of the bunch was a brand new vegetable market which actually grows much of its own produce right behind the store.  There is much more variety available in fruits and veg here than we found in Veradero or Santa Marta, and the prices are equally good.  Our quest for lobster and shrimp were unsuccessful, however, as none of the drivers fisherman friends were at home.  Tomorrow, perhaps.

The highlight of today’s trip was a small neighbourhood in the town of Jaimanitas (which is where the marina is located) called Fuesterlandia.  It is a neighbourhood dominated by the work of a famous Cuban artist.  Everything is covered in mosaics, and fantastic structures grow out of roofs and walls, creating the most amazing visual treat.  We wandered, open-mouthed and delighted, to see dragons and giraffes, giant flowers, and madonna and child, all made completely of small ceramic pieces.  Fantastical creatures, indeed.

Storms rolled in during the afternoon, with thunder, lightening, and heavy downpours that seemed to continue for hours.  There was a brief respite, with rainbows and a beautiful sunset, but the clouds returned, bringing rain and more thunder overnight.  Poor Kokomo was not happy abouth all the noise.

June 9, 2017
As promised, the taxi returned this morning to take us in search of lobster.   This also provided us with a rare glimpse into everyday life.  Lobster fishing is completely controlled by the state, and the average fisherman is not allowed to fish or sell lobster.  Penalties are severe, although no one would say exactly what they are.

We don’t know where he went, but our supplier went away to retrieve the lobster for us from another location.  He came back with a 5 Kg bag of frozen lobster tails, which we had agreed to split with Patrick and Jaqueline.  So we came away with 2.5 kg of lobster (9 or 10 tails) for $25 CUC, and about a half kilo of shrimp for $15 CUC.  There will be some good dinners coming up!!

After bringing our booty back to the boats, and rearranging the freezer to make it all fit, we piled back into the taxi for our first trip into Havana.  With Patrick and Jaqueline as our guides, we arrived at Parque Central – the hub of the old town.  This lovely old park is surrounded by the Capitol Building, the National Theatre building and five grand old hotels.

The Capitol building is a copy of the U.S. Capitol building in Washington with one important difference:  the Cuban Capitol is 2 centimeters taller than the American one, a fact shared with great delight by our taxi driver.

We began our walking tour with a trek through Old Havana, ending up at El Floridita, one of Heminway’s favourite bars.  Inside, there is a bronze statue of Papa himself sitting at the bar.  It’s a small place, but Patrick managed to find us a table.  As we waited for our daiquiris to arrive, we marvelled at the hordes of people coming in just to take their picture with the statue.  Most never ordered a drink, or looked around long enough to appreciate the ornate mural behind the bar, or to enjoy the band playing for their entertainment.  I couldn’t help but wonder how many of these folks have actually read any of Hemingway’s books.

It started to rain while we were inside, which set the pattern for the rest of the day.  We followed Patrick through the multitude of church squares and historical buildings, dodging into doorways – or a bar/restaurant – when it rained, moving on when it stopped.  Patrick’s plan for lunch was an outdoor terrace which was not going to work under the conditions, so we went with Michael’s choice of the Buena Vista Curry Club, an Indian restaurant run by a young man from Manchester.  We had a great meal – our first Indian meal since we left Toronto – and thoroughly enjoyed the couple of hours we spent there.

As a side note, I should explain that neither Patrick nor Jaqueline are fluent in English, but they do speak some.  Jaqueline speaks very good Spanish.  My very rusty high school French and somewhat better Spanish make for some hilarious trilingual conversations.  And the more mojitos we consume, the easier it is to communicate!!

I also need to say that Michael and I continue to be confused and somewhat saddened by some of what we are seeing here in Havana.  We noticed the contrasts of well kept buildings next to ruins in both Cardenas and Matanzas, but it is even more noticeable here.  There is evidence of a great deal of money coming into Havana, with new hotels going up and cruise ships often in the harbour, but the absolute poverty, with families living in some of those ruined buildings, is hard to get our heads around.

Havana is a vibrant city, full of life and laughter, music and dancing, art and history, all jammed in together and impossible to resist.

June 10, 2017
Cuba, in general, and Havana specifically, are recognized worldwide through images of mint condition cars from the 1940s and ‘50s, still in use every day.  Some are in better condition than others, and some make you wonder how they stay in one piece at all.

We have ridden in Dodges, Plymouths and Fords, all older than me, and all in use as taxis.  But we had not ridden in a convertible – until today.  On our way out of Havana yesterday, we stopped where all the antique cars hang out, and arranged for a big, pink convertible to pick us up at the marina and take us for a 3 hour tour to the highlights of Havana that you can’t reach on foot.

Manolo arrived at 9:30, and off we went with a blast from his ‘Aaauuuuuga – uuuuga’ horn.  The road into Havana passes along Embassy Row, and some of them are indeed impressive.  A block off the main thoroughfare is Canada’s embassy, a little smaller than some of the others, but in a lovely building.  The Russian and US embassies sit apart from the others, closer to downtown.  Both are unattractive – I would even call the Russian building ugly, a Soviet legacy for sure.

We climbed through the city’s hills to a beautiful wooded area that reminded me of some tropical planet in one of the Star Wars movies.  Green vines covered everything, and moisture dripped from the trees making the ground slick and treacherous.  The entire area is bordered by a resricted military zone, with unsmiling Guardas at the frequent checkpoints, but the road is well travelled, with many taxis and private cars coming to the woods for a few minutes in the quiet green.  We stopped long enough for a few photos, then were on our way again to Plaza de la Revolucion.

Perched on top of a hill, this expansive plaza is a monument to the heroes of Cuba and the Revolucion – Che, Jose Marti, Fidel, and many others.  Che’s likeness is everywhere – paintings and ironwork are most popular, and his words are frequently painted as slogans on the sides of buildings.


Another Cuban hero is, apparently, John Lennon.  A statue of him sits on a bench in a lovely park, and tourists are invited to sit with him for a photo – and a small donation to the man who’s job is to put a pair of round sunglasses on the statue for your photo, then remove the glasses when you are finished.  We settled for a photo from a distance.  On the corner is the Club Submarino Amarillo.  Full points to you if you guessed the translation to be Yellow Submarine Club.  Live music is presented 8 days a week (sorry – I couldn’t resist).

Time for a refreshing daiquiri at the French club, even though it was not yet 11:00 am, then back into the car.  Next stop Barrio de Hamel, an AfroCuban artists’ area, where the old walls are all painted and all of the sculptures and furniture is reclaimed/recycled.  We didn’t stay here long, as we felt we were being hustled from the moment we stepped out of the car….Buy a drink, buy something to eat, buy some art, buy my services to be your guide.

Old Havana is in large part restricted to pedestrians, but our driver took us around as much as he could, past many of the same buildings we had seen yesterday.  Our plan was to visit El Castillo del Morro, a 16th century fort at the entrance to Havana Harbour, but the police had the tunnel closed for an unknown reason, and we were not able to get there.

All in all, it was a lovely morning, and were back at the marina by 12:30.  Patrick and Jaqueline served up some mojitos, then lunch, and a very pleasant afternoon on Cava’s back deck, followed by a lovely sunset.  Kokomo has discovered that he likes to spend time in the grass next to the canal, especially at dusk when there are lots of little flying things to chase!